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PROCESS

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CONCEPT

 
Mood Board for "Les Americains"; Portfolio Project

Mood Board for "Les Americains"; Portfolio Project

 

Every concept is sparked by inspiration.

Every designer knows the feeling of being inspired. For most it's not easily explained. Wherever that moment comes from; a sight, sound or experience, the one thing that is for sure is that they have been moved. The emotional connection to an idea is the pivotal point in turning inspiration into conception.

Researching an initial inspiration and collecting supporting evidence to expand the idea is the corner stone to finding the right concept; for both designer and brand. Not all ideas are created equal. Through thoughtful and dedicated research we find out if an inspiration is right for all involved. Combing through other ideas and the information that surrounds them is what determines the validity of an inspiration; but deepens a designer's connection to it. Just like all steps in the Design Process, this is about people.

The relationship between Designer and Brand can take time to grow, but is essential to the right products for the consumer. Knowing the aesthetic DNA of a brand is the most important responsibility for any designer. It is through this deep understanding that the designer can develop a narrative directly to the consumer. Through concept and research a designer creates a story that they are trying to communicate. The concept process is how the designer relay's an inspiration through the voice of the brand.

By choosing the right inspiration or by appropriately conveying an idea, is how the connection with consumer is built. Finding emotional and timely supportive evidence when creating a concept is the first step into making this relationship stronger.

 
Mood Board for "Surreal Safari"; Summer 2015, First Impressions, Macy's

Mood Board for "Surreal Safari"; Summer 2015, First Impressions, Macy's

 

Support your narrative through trend & market research.

 
Market Research; Spring 2015, First Impressions, Macys

Market Research; Spring 2015, First Impressions, Macys

As the idea takes hold and the concept grows, it's time to make it a reality by seeing what's happening around you. The visual representations become critical as the concept grows outside of the designer's head. Now is the time to look to Trend.

Having a deep understanding of the foundations of design and how it applies to a brand is paramount. A working knowledge of key colors, prints, fabrics and silhouettes of any particular season is the true strength of trend.

It is a designers goal to not only find out a particular shade of green that is prevalent in a season; but to understand how that color directly pertains to a brand. The same can be said of print, fabric and silhouette. An understanding of the way in which these elements should be used for a particular brand or category is directly influenced by the brands DNA.

Creating a story through color and print can make or break a collection. Harmoniously developing a color palette or fabric story that is both focused and nuanced in levels and contrast is what creates depth and emotional connection to the product by the consumer.

Layering the aspects that have stood the test of time with those that are of the moment is how a designer can ensure a solid and well-rounded collection.

As we move forward in the Design Process we seek to expand these ideas in a more tangible way.

 
Initial Concept Board; Summer 2019, Simply Emma, Sears

Initial Concept Board; Summer 2019, Simply Emma, Sears

 

INVESTIGATION

 
Researching Inspiration for, "White Heat"; Summer 2014, First Impressions, Macy's

Researching Inspiration for, "White Heat"; Summer 2014, First Impressions, Macy's

 

Investigation is more than just development.
It's about exploring every nook & cranny of your concept.

 

Now that the concept has been established and a clear direction has presented itself it's time to explore the tangible aspects of the collection.

First, the designer must take stock of the resources available to them through the brand. Whether it's the mills that can create a fabric you are developing or the people you are working with directly; it's important to know what is achievable for any given company.

Through this knowledge a design team can start crafting with these resources. Manipulating fabrics or finding new washes. Exploring a new print technique or trying a new way of finishing; are all dependent on a brands capabilities.

Now is also the time to ask tough questions and to question in general. Exploring the minutiae of a concept and achieving the desired results are all a part of this step in the process.

How can we achieve this color on this fabric?

Is this process sustainable?

What is the feasibility on our factories to achieve this detail in production?

Experimentation takes hold as the answers to these questions and more are discovered. The innate  characteristics through which a designer answers these questions are shaped by the brand's DNA. It's here that a team gathers the tools they need to execute a collection.

Splatter Jean Study; Spring 2017, Polo - Ralph Lauren

Splatter Jean Study; Spring 2017, Polo - Ralph Lauren

 

Translate your concept into tangible pieces.

Woven Burnout / Discharge Print Study; 2004, Virgil Sparks

Woven Burnout / Discharge Print Study; 2004, Virgil Sparks

Drape Study in Muslin; 2018, Virgil Sparks

Drape Study in Muslin; 2018, Virgil Sparks

 

In tandem with the big picture development of a concept into a collection, creativity takes hold during the Investigation process.

Manipulating fabrics and exploring hand-crafted details give a designer insight into the story they are wanting to tell. Creating plot points and harmony through the creative process. Taking fabric to form to find new shapes or cultivating new seam work all help to expand the vocabulary of the concept.

In this way of thinking; if the Investigation is a designer's outline, the Design is their first draft.

 

DESIGN

 
Initial Design Line Sketch; Fall 2018, Teat & Cosset

Initial Design Line Sketch; Fall 2018, Teat & Cosset

 

Turn your vision into reality.

 

The design team has done their homework. All of the relevant information and tools have been gathered; now is the time to bring it all together.

By taking the materials and details they have created the designer can integrate them into the shapes and pieces that have become important throughout the process. Sketches take on new life as they are drawn with intention.

Silhouettes become inviting as the toile process starts and fabrics are given a voice. Colors are finalized and fittings begin.

The Process becomes an obsession as each individual on the team creates the parts of a whole. It's here that artistic expression takes a backseat to design; for to design is to approach a project with intention and creative solutions to the problem at hand.

 Through this process of creatively answering the questions imposed by the lifestyle of the consumer; the intent of Design is revealed.

First Toile in Jersey; 2018

First Toile in Jersey; 2018

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The Devil is in the details.

Flat Sketch & Design; 2016, Stateless

 

As each piece of the puzzle finds it's home; the culmination of Design takes place.

It's here we find the designer pulling the various details of the collection into focus. Precise fittings take place and meticulous samples are sewn. It's through the lens of design that we start to zoom in on the minutiae. All the while never forgetting the bigger picture that the team is putting together.

Coordinating with design counterparts and having a strong, independent team where each member is comfortable in and excited by their role further amplifies the human intent of the design process.

This is where trust is born. Through intense understandings of design intent and clear, natural communication; issues that take place over the course of a collection can be artfully evaded if ever taking place at all.

Human minded problems.
Human minded process.
Human minded solutions.

Design is more than just a sketch; and this is where the process flourishes.

First Fitting, Look 1; Senior Collection, 2008

First Fitting, Look 1; Senior Collection, 2008